HAIR-ITAGE: Irun Kiko / Isi Òwu — Beyond Style, Into Legacy

Across generations and tribes, African hair has been a canvas of identity, art, and heritage. Among the Yoruba, the practice is called Irun Kiko; the Igbo know it as Isi Òwu.

Though the names differ, the essence remains the same — threading the hair with cotton, wool, or rubber to create intricate, sculptural patterns that are both protective and deeply meaningful.

More than a hairstyle, threading is heritage. For centuries, mothers, grandmothers, and aunties have chosen it not only for its neatness and durability but for its connection to care, tradition, and self-expression.

Each wrap of thread represented patience and artistry, tying generations together through the ritual of hair.

Irun Kiko / Isi Òwu is more than aesthetics; it is a language of culture. Passed down through family lines, the style was a way to protect the hair from harsh weather while celebrating beauty and belonging.

Similar practices can be found across Nigeria, from Edo to Northern threading traditions, to Fulani braids and cornrows, all echoing the same cultural rhythm of identity through art.

The process itself is meticulous yet deeply creative. Hair is parted into clean sections, and thread made of cotton, wool, or rubber is wrapped tightly from root to tip. Unlike braiding, the thread itself forms the design, allowing for straight, spiral, or coiled patterns.

Some styles leave the ends unwrapped, giving a sculptural, airy look, while others are wound tightly for a sleek finish. Some mothers used plain cotton, others opted for bright, coloured yarns that shimmered in the sun.

Before edge control and hair gel, threading was already defining edges, stretching curls, and sculpting crowns with precision. It was beauty, artistry, and innovation long before those words became trends.

For many Nigerian children, Irun Kiko / Isi Òwu evokes nostalgia, the sound of laughter, the sting of the comb, and the comforting hum of conversation. Saturday mornings meant sitting between your mother’s knees while she worked her magic, section by section.

It wasn’t just about the style; it was a moment of connection, a time when mothers passed down lessons, stories, and songs.

Today, threading is making a quiet return, celebrated for its creativity and cultural authenticity.

Beyond being a protective style, Irun Kiko / Isi Òwu serves as a reminder of who we are and where we come from. Each twist and coil is a cultural signature, a declaration that beauty is not just seen but remembered.

Known widely as Irun Kiko / Isi Òwu, this threading style remains a crown of culture and memory. Across ethnic groups, it speaks of family, identity, and artistry, reminding us that hair is not just fashion but history woven strand by strand. Though it wasn’t always painless, as the tight wrapping often tugged at the scalp, our mothers swore by its benefits: neatness, durability, and even faster hair growth.

For those who grew up with it, it sparks nostalgia; for those discovering it now, it is an invitation to see hair as heritage, a crown that unites generations.